{"id":3754,"date":"2015-08-10T22:03:15","date_gmt":"2015-08-10T20:03:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?p=3754"},"modified":"2015-08-10T22:03:15","modified_gmt":"2015-08-10T20:03:15","slug":"chamonix","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?p=3754","title":{"rendered":"CHAMONIX"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Scalare su granito o su calcare non \u00e8 la stessa cosa. Su calcare le vie sono quasi sempre spittate: poche sono le fessure in cui usare i friends e la roccia tenderebbe a sgretolarsi. Su granito gli spit ci sono solo sulle placche improteggibili e non vicino alle fessure. Spesso ci sono dei tiri con solo la sosta e tutto il resto da proteggere. Ma \u00e8 anche bello cosi&#8217;:con una serie completa di friends ci si pu\u00f2 proteggere dove si vuole! Siamo stati due giorni a Chamonix per scalare all&#8217;Aiguille du Midi col granito pi\u00f9 bello del mondo ed alla Torre rossa del Peigne.All&#8217;Aiguille du Midi siamo andati in funivia ed in scarpe da ginnastica. Con 5 doppie dalla cima siamo arrivati al primo tiro sopra il ghiacciaio per salire la REBUFFAT(6A max):la via pi\u00f9 ripetuta del Bianco?Pu\u00f2 essere visto l&#8217;affollamento (ma anche la bellezza !). Dopo pernottamento in tenda, il giorno dopo abbiamo fatto la VAUCHER &#8211; CONTAMINE (6a max)\u00a0al Peigne: un infinit\u00e0 di diedri fessure e camini (400 m di dislivello). Non facile arrivare all&#8217;attacco per lo scioglimento del ghiacciaio alla base.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 20%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-3754 gallery-columns-5 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3755#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3756#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3757#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham3-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3758#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham4-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3759#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham5-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3760#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham6-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3761#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham7-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3762#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham8-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3763#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham9-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3764#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham10-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3765#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham11-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3766#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham12-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3767#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham13-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3768#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham14-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=3769#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/cham15-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Scalare su granito o su calcare non \u00e8 la stessa cosa. Su calcare le vie sono quasi sempre spittate: poche sono le fessure in cui usare i friends e la roccia tenderebbe a sgretolarsi. Su granito gli spit ci sono solo sulle placche improteggibili e non vicino alle fessure. Spesso ci sono dei tiri con [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3754","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-scalate"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3754","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3754"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3754\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3754"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3754"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3754"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}