{"id":5571,"date":"2017-07-20T12:03:28","date_gmt":"2017-07-20T10:03:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?p=5571"},"modified":"2017-07-20T12:03:28","modified_gmt":"2017-07-20T10:03:28","slug":"via-bettembourg","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?p=5571","title":{"rendered":"VIA BETTEMBOURG"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Via di arrampicata storica e molto bella nel gruppo del Monte Bianco.Si parte da Punta Helbronner(raggiunta in funivia) e con un&#8217;ora di percorso glaciale si arriva alla base del Pic Adolphe Rey (m 3500).Attualmente il ghiacciaio \u00e8 nelle condizioni di fine agosto , molto crepacciato,da percorrere legati con attenzione. Abbiamo salito la via <strong>BETTEMBOURG<\/strong> \u00a0(6B+ max \u00a06a ob. \u00a06 tiri). La via parte con un tiro di 6b+:nella prima parte sono stati aggiunti 9 spit perch\u00e8 il ghiacciaio in 20 anni \u00e8 sceso pi\u00f9 di 10 m. La roccia \u00e8 levigata e sarebbe inscalabile!Gli altri tiri sono tutti da proteggere completamente a friends fino al numero 4 (noi ne avevamo 12 ma qualcuno in pi\u00f9 non guastava).Si sale su diedri fessure continue di un granito rosso eccezionale.&#8221;E&#8217; l&#8217;itinerario pi\u00f9 elegante della parete,atletico e di grande soddisfazione,\u00e8 firmato da arrampicatori alternativi e innovatori che ricercavano l&#8217;estetica e sognavano Yosemite&#8221; (G.Bassanini).Meteo fino alle 9 un po&#8217; nuvoloso poi tutto sereno ma freddo: abbiamo arrampicato indossando tutto quello che avevamo compreso K-way. In discesa abbiamo incastrato una doppia abbandonando una corda.Le ultime doppie le abbiamo fatte con una corda sola.Arrivati alla funivia alle 17.30:cinque minuti \u00a0prima dell&#8217;ultima discesa!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 14%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-5571 gallery-columns-7 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=5572#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" 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\/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=5584#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/P7160866-FILEminimizer-e1500544814125-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/P7160866-FILEminimizer-e1500544814125-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/P7160866-FILEminimizer-e1500544814125-480x480.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/?attachment_id=5585#main'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/P7160867-FILEminimizer-e1500544804208-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/P7160867-FILEminimizer-e1500544804208-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/P7160867-FILEminimizer-e1500544804208-480x480.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Via di arrampicata storica e molto bella nel gruppo del Monte Bianco.Si parte da Punta Helbronner(raggiunta in funivia) e con un&#8217;ora di percorso glaciale si arriva alla base del Pic Adolphe Rey (m 3500).Attualmente il ghiacciaio \u00e8 nelle condizioni di fine agosto , molto crepacciato,da percorrere legati con attenzione. Abbiamo salito la via BETTEMBOURG \u00a0(6B+ [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5571","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-scalate"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5571","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5571"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5571\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5571"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5571"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.caivarazze.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5571"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}